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2006-09-25, 23:58
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#1 |
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接觸攀言
註冊日期: 2005-08
文章: 4
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[裝備討論]主繩相關數據,強度規格
請問：
1.分別打完六大繩結後，對靜力繩而言，分別會損失（%）多少力？ 2.分別打完六大繩結後，對動力繩而言，分別會損失（%）多少力？ 3.輔助繩大都是靜力繩嗎？ 謝謝！ |
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2006-09-26, 00:00
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#2 |
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接觸攀言
註冊日期: 2005-08
文章: 4
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請問：主繩的CE認證，有 測墜落測試 / 最小的斷裂強度測試 嗎？
請問：
1.主繩的CE認證，有測墜落（動態受力）測試嗎？最小的斷裂強度（靜態受力）測試嗎？ 2.主繩的CE認證，檢驗項目有那些？ 謝謝！ |
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2006-09-26, 09:14
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#3 |
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論壇管理員
註冊日期: 2003-03
文章: 955
Images: 11
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主繩應該是UIAA-CE1認證
這是UIAA主網站==>http://www.uiaa.ch/index.aspx 這是相關安全認證規範==>http://www.uiaa.ch/?c=310 請參考
__________________
------------------------------------------------- what do you do in your life...? ............. i live ,i Climb....... ..... |
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2006-09-26, 11:23
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#4 | |
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週末攀言者
註冊日期: 2006-06
住址: Taiwan
文章: 21
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引用:
http://www.cme.com.tw |
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2006-09-26, 11:36
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#5 | |
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週末攀言者
註冊日期: 2006-06
住址: Taiwan
文章: 21
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引用:
一般靜力繩就可以很容易測量出靜態受力範圍（Tensile Strength），以10mm靜力繩而言，約可承受2500公斤的力量。 至於主繩的測試項目，有相當多種，如：Impact Force、UIAA Falls、Static Elongation、Dynamic Elongation等等。 http://www.cme.com.tw |
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2006-09-26, 18:52
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#6 | |
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版主
註冊日期: 2003-05
文章: 190
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引用:
以前11mm3000公斤,那現在10.2mm我推估也是3000公斤上下較合理. (不是跟宏祥打對台,他說5000我說3000,反正原廠沒說嘛,我們就一起來黑白講了) |
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2006-09-26, 20:43
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#7 |
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接觸攀言
註冊日期: 2005-08
文章: 4
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感謝！
抱歉，我沒有表達清楚。 可否再請問： 打完 稱人結 後大約會有多少的可承受力損失？ 打完 平結 後大約會有多少的可承受力損失？ 打完 八字結 後大約會有多少的可承受力損失？ 打完 水結 後大約會有多少的可承受力損失？ 打完 雙漁人結 後大約會有多少的可承受力損失？ |
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2006-09-26, 20:45
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#8 |
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論壇管理員
註冊日期: 2003-03
文章: 955
Images: 11
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主繩大廠之一的BEAL
在他的其中一本繩子規格書裡 有提到這些數據 (應用繩索類2005年版) 大約是 9mm=1900daN(公斤) 10mm=2400daN(公斤) 10.5mm=2700daN(公斤) 11mm=3000daN(公斤) 12mm=4200daN(公斤) 其中不同型號的繩子拉力值有一些差距 20mm甚至可以到達8000daN(公斤) 另外 該數據也有提到 八字結點靜拉力約為2/3最大靜拉力 縫合點約為7/10-8/10最大靜拉力 參考一下 http://www.bealplanet.com/
__________________
------------------------------------------------- what do you do in your life...? ............. i live ,i Climb....... ..... |
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2006-09-26, 20:53
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#9 |
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接觸攀言
註冊日期: 2005-08
文章: 4
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感謝各位回應！
抱歉，我沒有表達清楚。 我知道UIAA及EN有做墜落測試，但CE認證到底做那些檢驗？ 謝謝！ |
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2006-09-26, 23:20
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#10 | |
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週末攀言者
註冊日期: 2006-06
住址: Taiwan
文章: 21
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引用:
Dynamic Ropes designed for lead climbing are built to meet specific standards for force absorption, most notably UIAA 101. This requirement for force absorption generally resultin a rope with high elongatio properties. High elongation, also known as “stretch”, can make it difficult to test dynamic climbing ropes. Most test labs are not able to slow-pull a dynamic rope to failure using the same test method that is commonly used for low-stretch and static rescue ropes because of the great distance it would stretch. Using an "educated ballpark guess" based on an average tensile strength of PMI's dynamic core cables, rounded down to simulate 3 sigma, and other test data suggesting that ~20% of the overall breaking strength of a rope with cabled cores comes from the sheath yarns/construction, we feel confident in estimating breaking strength for various diameters of dynamic rope as follows: 11mm ~6000#; 10.5mm ~5000#; 8.6mm ~3100#; 9.4mm ~4100#; 9.7mm ~4600#. This would suggest that dynamic ropes are in fact nearly as strong as equal size static ropes and NOT limited to 60-80% as some other sources have suggested. While these figures are based ONLY ON SPECULATION - NOT ACTUAL TEST DATA, they do correspond with the limited testing we have been able to perform in this area. Even so, a great deal more testing would need to be done to lend any statistical significance to these numbers. It should be emphasized that these are NOT test results, only very rough estimates. Anyone assembling a product or system using PMI dynamic ropes must perform their own testing of that finished product to verify its acceptance for any specific intended use. PMI dynamic ropes are only manufactured, sold, and warranted for the intended use as dynamic mountaineering ropes. © Pigeon Mountain Industries 2004 |
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2006-09-27, 08:25
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#11 | |
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版主
註冊日期: 2003-05
文章: 190
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引用:
11mm ~6000#; 10.5mm ~5000# 繩子材質不可能相差這麼多,是否測試方法不同? |
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