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| 裝備討論區 攀岩及任何戶外活動裝備的討論 |
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主題工具 |
2007-03-06, 15:35
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#1 |
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中度攀言者
註冊日期: 2006-12
住址: 中国上海
文章: 112
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请问台港那里可以买到Soloist/Solo Aid /Silent Partner Device ??
查知Wren有卖Solo时的自我保护器,想知道是否台港有卖或卖其它类似装备.
谢谢. http://www.wrenindustries.com/index.html Precision CNC Machining Solo Climbing Devices Rescue Tripod Precision CNC Machining From Prototype to Production Wren Industries is an ISO9001:2000 and AS9100b Certified precision machine shop located in Grand Junction, Colorado. Currently we have three CNC machining centers and one CNC lathe. In addition to our CNC equipment, we have a variety of manual machines. All of our equipment is rigorously maintained to achieve the best cutting tolerance and least amount of downtime. Having multiple pallet machining centers allows us to do quick turn around work when needed. We have experience with all types of materials including stainless steels, exotic plastics and composites, and high speed machining of aluminum. We are also a Type 7 firearms manufacturer, licensed with the BATF. Wren Industries is a HubZone, Woman-Owned Small Business CAGE: 3EUD4 We pride ourselves in delivering quality parts on time! Wren Industries also manufactures and distributes these fine products: solo aid soloist silent partner arizona vortex Manual feed device, that will lock even when inverted, increasing its ability to catch a head first fall. Directional cam allows rope to feed through automatically as climber advances, yet locks solidly in a fall. A speed sensitive device that feeds out rope while the climber advances, but quickly locks in any fall. A fixed A-frame design artificial high directional rescue tripod. Wren Industries 970.254.8961 714-B Scarlet Drive, Grand Junction, Colorado 81505 Copyright 2006 Wren Industries, All Rights Reserved Site Design by Camrud Design |
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2007-04-02, 13:10
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#5 |
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攀言新手
註冊日期: 2006-09
文章: 12
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Soloist和Solo Aid 工作原理幾乎相同,和其它裝備大廠一樣,是使用負重側在突然負重時旋轉凸輪會旋轉鎻定的設計,但是它們並不像我們常見的具有self-breaking的下降器具有釋放剎車的控制桿,所以使用上在solo要用solo的穿繩法,belay要用belay的穿繩法,但是在鎖定時的確實度不錯,也不傷繩,但是使用便利性不佳,價格競爭力不夠,加上生產廠商的產品線不夠齊全,所以能見度不高.
而Silent Partner更麻煩,要先打双套結套在中央滑輪上,而且規定要用兩個扣環連接吊帶,在突然負重時,類似機械剎車的原理會鎖住滑輪,利用双套結原理止住下滑,不過2佰多美金的售價和過大的體積,實在沒幾個人會用它. |
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2007-04-05, 11:41
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#7 |
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攀言新手
註冊日期: 2006-09
文章: 12
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忘了Soloist and Solo Aid 吧!真的不好用,介紹你另外兩個可以做為solo時的確保器
一個為singing rock春天將推出的產品,一個為USHBA的BASIC ASCENDER ,兩個的價錢差不多,都為80多美金,而且USHBA的產品80多美元為鈦合金製,鋁合金只要60多美元,從扣環固定孔和整體的比例你應該看的出來,大小頂多Soloist and Solo Aid 的一半大,外觀更不用說漂亮多了,工作原理也差不多,負重系數也差不多,USHB的產品我兩型都有買,也都測試過 (我體重72公斤,使用PMI的9mm動態繩,從4樓跳下,在2樓半時繩子拉緊,USHB夾繩很確實,除了繩子的慣性抖動之外,幾乎沒有位移,連跳四次,繩子沒受傷,USHB也沒受傷,只有和D環相接處有正常的磨痕),這又輕巧,又堅固的東西,品相又正,忘了那兩個醜八怪吧! |
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2007-04-06, 00:55
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#9 |
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攀言新手
註冊日期: 2006-09
文章: 12
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Singing Rock這款產品今年春天才開始供貨,消息是從官網得知,開賣後我再幫你注意.
USHB我是在http://www.mtntools.com/cat/rclimb/ascend/02ascend.html這家店所購買的,接受國際訂單,一般裝備還算齊全,風評不錯. 不過特別要注意一點,向國外網購貴在運費,盡量把一些要汰換的東西一次買齊,不然就幾個同好合買,分擔運費,不然你買一,二樣小東西,可能要付同樣價錢的運費,絕對划不來,切記,切記! |
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2007-05-19, 12:42
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#11 |
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攀言新手
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...CMCSSC说的这两个都是上升/下降器具,也就是说通过EN567和EN341标准,....当然你可以用来SOLO,顶绳SOLO的一般没问题,但最好不要用来FREE LEAD SOLO....AID的LEAD操作小心的话可以...但GRI-GRI或者CINCH之类的东西也可以有同样效果,我个人认为打孔改装过的GRI-GRI甚至更好......但注意,以上说的所有东西和WERN INDUSTRIES的三款装置都是不一样的..原理完全不同,他们通过了EN和UIAA的制动器操作标准,也就是说是专门为SOLO设计的....尤其是SILENT PARTNER可以很顺畅的做FREE SOLO.....因为FREE SOLO中给绳效率是一个很关键的因素......另外SILENT PARTNER可以不需要胸式安全带使用,并且设计和测试确认可以制动头向下的冲坠.......
话又说回来了...如果上是AID SOLO...我在A3一下从来不用SOLO装置....两个双套结的传统方式足够了.....FREE LEAD SOLO....目前没有任何东西可以超越SILENT PARTNER....虽然250美子是贵了点..哈哈
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I work for SoWh@t Expedition as mountain guide and expedition leader, we run expedition funded by major brands year round. We are a UIAA register non-profit organization, please check www.karakoramlinkup.info for membership and other details. |
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2007-05-21, 19:53
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#12 |
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中度攀言者
註冊日期: 2006-12
住址: 中国上海
文章: 112
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谢谢 [email protected]
我的朋友收益良多 谢谢乐于分享 |
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2007-05-22, 01:53
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#13 |
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攀言新手
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希望有机会可以一起玩,我现在住在英国SHEFFIELD....年底搬回国,我一直想在国内找个固定的攀搭档.......可否让你朋友和我联络?我的MSN [email protected] QQ 27221504.....
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I work for SoWh@t Expedition as mountain guide and expedition leader, we run expedition funded by major brands year round. We are a UIAA register non-profit organization, please check www.karakoramlinkup.info for membership and other details. |
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2007-05-29, 17:07
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#14 | |
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中度攀言者
註冊日期: 2006-12
住址: 中国上海
文章: 112
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引用:
谢谢cmcssc. 他以后不必再Free Solo了. |
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2007-05-29, 23:23
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#15 |
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論壇管理員
註冊日期: 2001-11
文章: 1042
部落格文章: 1
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這篇是Climbing雜誌的文章, 如何用Grigri 自己 top-roping 獨攀.
http://climbing.org/showthread.php?t=2571
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台灣攀岩資料庫 |
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2007-06-04, 12:44
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#17 |
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攀言新手
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I thought I ve told you the USHBA piece of toy can only be used for top rope solo...only the Wern Industries makes specific devices for lead soloing at the moment, and the Slient Partner is at the top of the range....Soloist/Solo Aid/ and Slient Partner are cool stuff not to be missed..I spent years working with mountain guides and climbers in Yosemite, Alps, karakoram and Himalayas since these devieces have been invented, we've been using them alot and found them super useful...Silent Partner is THE PEIECE OF GEAR to buy if you are serious about Soloing......well all three devices can be used for other purposes as multi-function gear as well, you will find them useful for rope access, bigwall climbing, rescue and alot more....
by the way, the silent partner is the your best bet....unless you can get soloist/solo aid at super low price.....
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I work for SoWh@t Expedition as mountain guide and expedition leader, we run expedition funded by major brands year round. We are a UIAA register non-profit organization, please check www.karakoramlinkup.info for membership and other details. |
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2007-06-04, 13:40
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#18 |
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中度攀言者
註冊日期: 2006-12
住址: 中国上海
文章: 112
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jaxxhope,
Yes, thanks for your further explanation for silent partner/soloist/solo aid. The price of silent partner is super high indeed.... and maybe we can get the second hand silent partner from USA E-bay or can you recommend me how to get it at bargain price ?? |
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